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Being part of a national park can be something of a mixed blessing. While this coveted status brings in much-needed funding, it also requires villages to commit to what can be an onerous investment in infrastructure and to sign up to what you might call the "chocolate box" charter – prettifying themselves to draw the punters in.
The village of Ashover, in north Derbyshire, is a hop, skip and a jump from the Peak District National Park, and would fit the description of a tourist honeypot – if only it received lots of tourists. Even though the village shares the same handsome architecture as communities in the national park, it can seem a sleepy place, with lace, knick-knack and novelty shops conspicuous by their absence.
The scenery is similar too: little lanes and quiet footpaths undulating over and down soft hills south of Chesterfield, the fields, predominantly given over to grazing livestock, punctuated by stocky farm buildings and hemmed in by dry-stone walls.